HD 100, tempted, a couple questions for current users

[David G]

I think the HD 100 would make a nice addition to my AV hub, but it looks like the launch wasn't the smoothest. So my first question; have the most egregious issues been ironed out? I see that Sage is releasing firmware updates pretty regularly, I suppose that's a good sign.

I'm also wondering if the extender can automatically switch to the native resolution of the media being played back. I have a nice video processor, so I'd like it to do the deinterlacing and scaling if possible. So can the extender automatically output 480i for SDTV, and 1080i or 720p (depending) for HD? Not a deal breaker, but it sure would be nice.

Thanks for your time, folks.

[Slipshod]

Originally Posted by David G

I'm also wondering if the extender can automatically switch to the native resolution of the media being played back. I have a nice video processor, so I'd like it to do the deinterlacing and scaling if possible. So can the extender automatically output 480i for SDTV, and 1080i or 720p (depending) for HD? Not a deal breaker, but it sure would be nice.

Yes, it supports native res output. The internal scaler is a bit touch-and-go on my SD TV recordings. Fails to deinterlace a lot, so I'm looking at an external scaler now. Trying to decide between the cheaper route of getting an Onkyo 875, or trying to scrape something together to get a nicer DVDO.

Aside from the internal scaler, I love the unit. Bought two from the second run and am really happy with them.

[David G]

Originally Posted by Slipshod

Yes, it supports native res output.

Great - automatic switch, right?

[Slipshod]

Originally Posted by David G

Great - automatic switch, right?

Yes, automatic switching to native res without you having to do anything. When not playing back the interface is in the highest res the display supports. Once you go to full-screen video (the preview window doesn't count) the extender will automatically switch to the closest native res for the content. If that res is not available (my TV does not do 480i over HDMI for example) it will use the internal scaler and go out at max available res.

The resolutions are a "closest match". So Dish SD at 480x480 or 544x480 interlaced maps to 480i. Dish's 1080-light (1440x1080i) maps to 1080i.

You may need to play around with the UI overscan settings to find something that works at all resolutions because the "info" and "playbar" will be displayed at the same res as the video, and the overscan may be different. It was different between 480i and 1080i when I played with native res via component on my TV. Had to adjust for overscan based on the 480i picture to see all the info and playbar.

[autoboy]

I have the Onkyo 875 and it works pretty well. There are some shows in 480i that it fails to deinterlace properly, but for some reason the extender is able to do a better job with those. For most, it does a fantastic job.

[Slipshod]

Originally Posted by autoboy

I have the Onkyo 875 and it works pretty well. There are some shows in 480i that it fails to deinterlace properly, but for some reason the extender is able to do a better job with those. For most, it does a fantastic job.

How does the Daily Show or the Colbert Report look on the Onkyo? And does it seem overly hot to you? The comments on Amazon make it look like it's rather prone to smoking.

[mikesm]

Originally Posted by Slipshod

How does the Daily Show or the Colbert Report look on the Onkyo? And does it seem overly hot to you? The comments on Amazon make it look like it's rather prone to smoking.

Most any receiver with Class A/B amps will put out a lot of heat under load. But they also give the best audio quality as well.

[PGPfan]

Originally Posted by mikesm

Most any receiver with Class A/B amps will put out a lot of heat under load. But they also give the best audio quality as well.

You are right about Class A/B putting out a healthy amount of heat, but it is certainly debateable as to them having the "best audio quality". They are the most common amplifiers out there, but MANY hardcore audiophiles consider them 'mid-fi' at best.

Just wanted to point out that everybody has differing opinions as to what constitutes "Best".

-PGPfan

[stanger89]

Originally Posted by Slipshod

Yes, automatic switching to native res without you having to do anything. When not playing back the interface is in the highest res the display supports.

Technically it goes to the default resolution you pick when you're in the resolution config menu (or it should at least).

Once you go to full-screen video (the preview window doesn't count) the extender will automatically switch to the closest native res for the content. If that res is not available (my TV does not do 480i over HDMI for example) it will use the internal scaler and go out at max available res.

Default res. And FYI, many TVs will accept resolutions that their EDID doesn't report, for example both my projectors will accept HDMI 480i but neither report it in the EDID, ditto for one of the man 1080p60. If that's the case you can add the missing timing as a custom timing and Sage will use that as expected (eg 480i or 1080p24).

The resolutions are a "closest match". So Dish SD at 480x480 or 544x480 interlaced maps to 480i. Dish's 1080-light (1440x1080i) maps to 1080i.

It seems to choose based on timing, or to be more specific it seems to pick based on vertical resolution and interlaced or progressive. So anything that's 480i will be output as (usually) 720x480i, 1080p as 1080p, 1080i as 1080i.

Originally Posted by autoboy

I have the Onkyo 875 and it works pretty well. There are some shows in 480i that it fails to deinterlace properly, but for some reason the extender is able to do a better job with those. For most, it does a fantastic job.

As far as scalers go, you might want to check out the Gefen TV Scaler Pro, it's a full-blown Realta HQV scaler for ~$500, note, not a Reon VX like in most displays/Receivers/SSPs, but a genuine Realta HQV, same one that's in the Lumagen Radiance XD and Calibre Vantage HD VPs. How well it's implemented isn't known yet.

Originally Posted by PGPfan

You are right about Class A/B putting out a healthy amount of heat, but it is certainly debateable as to them having the "best audio quality". They are the most common amplifiers out there, but MANY hardcore audiophiles consider them 'mid-fi' at best.

Just wanted to point out that everybody has differing opinions as to what constitutes "Best".

-PGPfan

If you really look into it, the details, science, tests, you'll find that when people can't see which amp is playing, and when the amps aren't clipping nobody can tell one amp from another, not even between a cheapo low-fi receiver and a high-end boutique amp. Heck, not even between a tube and a solid-state amp.

So the real question when buying an amp, is can it drive your speakers, in your room, at your listenning levels, without going into clipping, if it can do that, it will sound fine.

[PGPfan]

Originally Posted by stanger89

If you really look into it, the details, science, tests, you'll find that when people can't see which amp is playing, and when the amps aren't clipping nobody can tell one amp from another, not even between a cheapo low-fi receiver and a high-end boutique amp. Heck, not even between a tube and a solid-state amp.

So the real question when buying an amp, is can it drive your speakers, in your room, at your listenning levels, without going into clipping, if it can do that, it will sound fine.

No disagreement there, Stanger. I've never been one to support the '$3000 interconnect cable' mentality, nor do I believe that A/B amps are appropriate in all cases. Personally, I've become somewhat attached to some of the digital amps currently on the market - both for sound quality and electrical efficiency - but I'm not willing to say they are the 'Best' by any means.

I think it all depends on your speakers (design, construction, efficiency, placement, etc.) and that is what 'should' steer your selection of amplifier, but to each their own.

-PGPfan

[stanger89]

Originally Posted by PGPfan

No disagreement there, Stanger. I've never been one to support the '$3000 interconnect cable' mentality, nor do I believe that A/B amps are appropriate in all cases.

Yeah, I've been through almost everything in my current system:
Anthem MCA50 (180Wpc 50lb behemoth)
Krown XLS604 (380Wpc Pro Amps)
Sonic Impact T-Amp (10Wpc $19 Tripath "digital" amp)
Outlaw Audio 7125 (current amp)

And I can honestly say none of them changed the sound appreciably, even at high levels (90dB "average"+), but then again, I've got really efficient Klipsch speakers. If I were driving Maggies, it would probably be a different story.

Personally, I've become somewhat attached to some of the digital amps currently on the market - both for sound quality and electrical efficiency - but I'm not willing to say they are the 'Best' by any means.

Yeah, I just wish somebody made models "in between" seems the only way to get a switch-mode amplifier is to get a $$$ boutique model (PS Audio etc) or to get something like the T-Amp. A switch-mode equivalent of the Outlaw 7125 for a similar price would be most welcome.

I think it all depends on your speakers (design, construction, efficiency, placement, etc.) and that is what 'should' steer your selection of amplifier, but to each their own.

Exactly. I think a large part of the "recievers are crap" mentality comes from 1) the fact that a lot of speakers are marginal, efficiency wise, and 2) many are crap.

Lots of speakers are 87-89dB/W/m or so, which is not bad, but not great either, if you want to hit loud levels in a decent sized room with speakers like that you need a good 50Wpc or so to hit ~95dB (quite loud). Get much above 50Wpc and lots of receivers have trouble. Of course Klipsch's can get by on about 1/10 or less the power while Maggies need at least double that.

Of course this train is WAY derailed now

[Slipshod]

Originally Posted by stanger89

Default res. And FYI, many TVs will accept resolutions that their EDID doesn't report, for example both my projectors will accept HDMI 480i but neither report it in the EDID, ditto for one of the man 1080p60. If that's the case you can add the missing timing as a custom timing and Sage will use that as expected (eg 480i or 1080p24).

I had already checked to see if my TV would accept it... The Sony goes green on the whole screen, and the Westy just stays black.

As far as scalers go, you might want to check out the Gefen TV Scaler Pro, it's a full-blown Realta HQV scaler for ~$500, note, not a Reon VX like in most displays/Receivers/SSPs, but a genuine Realta HQV, same one that's in the Lumagen Radiance XD and Calibre Vantage HD VPs. How well it's implemented isn't known yet.

Awesome, well except for the delayed-until-June part. Much easier to choke down than a DVDO. Looks like MSRP is $699 right now, not sure what street price will be when it's finally releases.